5 things to demand of your bespoke shirt maker

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(Free-Press-Release.com) March 20, 2010 --

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5 things to demand of your bespoke shirt maker

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1. Full pattern matching - There really is little point in haveing a bespoke shirt made if the pattern is not matched throughout the shirt. By pattern matching, we do not just mean at the centre of the split yoke as some shirt makers would like you to think is a sign of quality (the cheapest of split-yoke shirts are pattern matched here). Look for pattern matching in your shirtmakers work at the following points a) The sleeve head where it meets the yoke; b) The gauntlet where it meets the sleeve; c) The collars - the pattern should be the same on both collars; The front placket - it should match up both vertically and horizontally so that the front appears as one seamless piece of fabric.

2. High density stitching - If your shirt is not stitched at aroung 15 stitches-per-inch (or greater) then your shirtmaker is making a shirt that is no better than a run-of-the-mill off-the-peg shirt. He is likely, however, not to charge a run-of-the-mill price. 15 s.p.i will ensure strong durable seams (assuming he has used quality cotton thread). Ensure it is single-needle tailored also.

3. Top quality fabrics - One of the things that really sets apart a quality bespoke shirt from the 'also-rans' is the quality of the fabric. Expect a good bespoke shirtmaker to offer fabrics from the likes of S.I.C Tess, Alumo, Albini, Thomas Mason and Riva. if in doubt, the Swiss and Italians make the best shirting fabrics - by far.

4. Quality mother-of-pearl buttons - There is little point in buying a fine shirt if it is fitted with cheap plastic buttons. Do not expect to pay extra for mother-of-pearl; it should be the standard. Plastric buttons will crack and break over time; good MoP buttons are virtually indestructible.

5. Hand cut personal pattern - This should probably be number 1. If your shirtmaker does not draft a pattern from scratch based on your personal measurements and figuration, then he is basicallys elling you a made-to-measure shirt which is a compromise between off-the-peg and bespoke.

Glenn Ludlow is the managing director of The Sartorial Executive Ltd. makers of fine English bespoke shirts and made-to-measure suits.

More information can be found online at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/

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