Charming Seoul: Capital of South Korea

May 30, 2006 (Press Release) -- Seoul is mega-modern and appealingly ancient. Flattened in the Korean War,

most of the city has been rebuilt since the 1950s. Peeking out from among

the 12-lane freeways, overshadowed by high-rises, Seoul has a hidden

history of centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens.

It also has cheap accommodation, excellent public transport and cultural

experiences aplenty, and that's why most visitors to South Korea never get

past its city limits. The Han River bisects the city, with Jung-gu the

central district, Jongno-gu (with most of the budget hotels and sights) to

the north, and Itaewon (packed full of shops, bars and nightlife) just

south of the city centre.

Seoul is justifiably famous for its palaces. Gyeongbokgung Palace is the

best known. Built at the beginning of the Joseon dynasty, most of the 500

buildings in the palace grounds were destroyed when the Japanese invaded.

Reconstructed in the late 19th century, destroyed again in the Korean War,

the palace and its grounds have now been entirely restored once more. The

palace is actually several buildings, including one of the most exquisite

pagodas in the country and an enormous two-storey throne room. The

National Folk Museum in the grounds of the palace is dedicated to showing

how ordinary Koreans have lived through the ages. Another palace highlight

is Changgyeonggung Palace, built in 1104. Once the rulers' summer palace,

the Japanese downgraded Changgyeonggung to a park, but there are still

plenty of Goryeo dynasty drawcards, including astronomical instruments, a

botanical garden and stone bridges. Cross a footbridge from the palace and

you're at the Jongmyo Shrine, where the ancestral tablets of all 27 Joseon

dynasty kings are enshrined.

If a bit of a chat with the locals is what you're after, head southwest of

Changgyeonggung to Tapgol Park, where crowds of friendly elderly folk sit

around talking about the weather. This is where the Declaration of

Independence was first read in 1919, and murals around the park are

dedicated to the independence movement. The park is named after the marble

pagoda (tapgol) in its grounds. The city's other great park is Namsan,

south of the city centre. The third tallest tower in the world, the Seoul

Tower is within the park, and it's packed full of tourist fun - aquarium,

games room and all-important observation deck. For a more sobering tourist

experience, try the War Memorial northwest of the Yongsan military base,

touted as one of the best museums in Seoul.

National Treasure No 1 is the Namdaemun Gate, once Seoul's chief city

gate. The gate, built in the 14th century, is near Seoul train station.


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