Some of the most beautiful roads in the Highlands of Scotland are built on old drover's tracks where cattle have been driven for a thousand years. You have to come back the way you went.
August 11, 2006 (Press Release) --
A chap called Gen Wade (18th cent) made roads which join up places in the Highlands.
As a result we have tourists who “do” Scotland from Glasgow to Inverness, back to Edinburgh, locked in 40 mph tailbacks, looking only for the next straight bit where they can pointlessly overtake, missing death by inches. (True. These main roads, particularly to Inverness, can be death traps, head to head collisions every month are reported in the local press. Little single track roads are safer despite appearances)
Don’t do this. Instead take a Highland Road that Goes Nowhere, which was invented by the Scots for the purpose of sustaining rural life, contemplating nature, and the love of life itself. Actually, all the RTGN are built on ancient trackways used for centuries, usually by drovers moving cattle and sheep to the market in Falkirk. Small communities were built on them. The remnants of these communities are still there and these are the oldest roads in the Highlands. That’s why they are fun. You can feel the past.
All these suggestions and times are from our little cottage at Kentallen near Glencoe.
www.bayviewkentallen.co.uk/autumnbreakscotland.co.uk
35 mins Gillian’s favourite, Glen Nevis, go right up to the top, and walk up beside the waterfalls. Braveheart was filmed there. In the early part of the road you pass the start of the climb up Ben Nevis. Fancy it? Definitely don’t do it without the gear and the fitness. You can do 6-8 hours of climbing, scrambling and ten miles of rocky walking can you?
45 mins Ft. William, take Mallaig Road, and after 2 miles at Banavie turn right on the west bank of the Caledonian Canal. Go West side of Loch Lochy then turn on to the RTGN west to Loch Arkaig. Look for Bonnie Prince Charles’ treasure which is buried there somewhere (I kid you not). On the way back visit the delightful Clan Cameron museum. “Loch Eil” was best known for being the battle cry of the largest Highland force in Prince’s Charles Highland Army, and the clan was also the foundation of the famous Cameron Highlander regiment. The Laird himself may serve you in the shop – he did us anyway. On the way back, watch out for the buzzard which will lead you back up the road.
All day trip This is the secret one. Make sure you’ve got petrol, cakes and a thermos. You are doing old Scotland to-day. Do you know anyone else who has ever seen Loch Hourn? Neither do we. Go to Invergarry, at the top of Loch Lochy on the Caledonian Canal. Turn left on the road that leads to Skye. After six miles, with Loch Garry to the left of you keep, branch left along the single track road and wave goodbye to everyone. You might not see another soul for a long time. You will go through ancient forests, into the hills past Loch Quoich. There are five Munroes over 3,000 feet within three miles of your car. You’ll end up at Kinlochourn. Neat little hamlet, little walk alongside the sea-loch, a winding Norwegian-like fjord. Only the odd fishing boat, the occasional day boat, or tourist boat out of Mallaig go there. No wonder the Vikings ran this area for centuries. They felt at home here
End
As a result we have tourists who “do” Scotland from Glasgow to Inverness, back to Edinburgh, locked in 40 mph tailbacks, looking only for the next straight bit where they can pointlessly overtake, missing death by inches. (True. These main roads, particularly to Inverness, can be death traps, head to head collisions every month are reported in the local press. Little single track roads are safer despite appearances)
Don’t do this. Instead take a Highland Road that Goes Nowhere, which was invented by the Scots for the purpose of sustaining rural life, contemplating nature, and the love of life itself. Actually, all the RTGN are built on ancient trackways used for centuries, usually by drovers moving cattle and sheep to the market in Falkirk. Small communities were built on them. The remnants of these communities are still there and these are the oldest roads in the Highlands. That’s why they are fun. You can feel the past.
All these suggestions and times are from our little cottage at Kentallen near Glencoe.
www.bayviewkentallen.co.uk/autumnbreakscotland.co.uk
35 mins Gillian’s favourite, Glen Nevis, go right up to the top, and walk up beside the waterfalls. Braveheart was filmed there. In the early part of the road you pass the start of the climb up Ben Nevis. Fancy it? Definitely don’t do it without the gear and the fitness. You can do 6-8 hours of climbing, scrambling and ten miles of rocky walking can you?
45 mins Ft. William, take Mallaig Road, and after 2 miles at Banavie turn right on the west bank of the Caledonian Canal. Go West side of Loch Lochy then turn on to the RTGN west to Loch Arkaig. Look for Bonnie Prince Charles’ treasure which is buried there somewhere (I kid you not). On the way back visit the delightful Clan Cameron museum. “Loch Eil” was best known for being the battle cry of the largest Highland force in Prince’s Charles Highland Army, and the clan was also the foundation of the famous Cameron Highlander regiment. The Laird himself may serve you in the shop – he did us anyway. On the way back, watch out for the buzzard which will lead you back up the road.
All day trip This is the secret one. Make sure you’ve got petrol, cakes and a thermos. You are doing old Scotland to-day. Do you know anyone else who has ever seen Loch Hourn? Neither do we. Go to Invergarry, at the top of Loch Lochy on the Caledonian Canal. Turn left on the road that leads to Skye. After six miles, with Loch Garry to the left of you keep, branch left along the single track road and wave goodbye to everyone. You might not see another soul for a long time. You will go through ancient forests, into the hills past Loch Quoich. There are five Munroes over 3,000 feet within three miles of your car. You’ll end up at Kinlochourn. Neat little hamlet, little walk alongside the sea-loch, a winding Norwegian-like fjord. Only the odd fishing boat, the occasional day boat, or tourist boat out of Mallaig go there. No wonder the Vikings ran this area for centuries. They felt at home here
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