Based on the fact that you are interested in starting and maintaining your own aquarium, I thought the information about watching your fish I talk about in this article would interest you.
November 22, 2006 (Press Release) --
Can you believe that the Christmas season is already upon us!!! And I know what some of you are thinking: time to get a larger aquarium!!! Yeah!!!
So you will have to remember, when setting up your new tank that you let it run for at least a day to check that the tank does not leak, and that the equipment all works, and to get the temperature stabilized, then introducing the first fish to try to get the cycle going. However, when moving to a larger tank, you are better off setting up the new tank using as much equipment and water from the old tank as possible, and immediately introducing the old fish to their new tank. Do not get any new fish until the tank is stable. Of course, all these steps are explained in details in the extensive manual that you can download immediately at www.first-aquarium-secrets.com.
Follow these steps when moving your fish to a larger aquarium:
Place the new tank where you want it. Rinse all the new equipment and the new gravel and decorations in cool running tap water to remove any dust or debris that has collected from manufacturing, shipping, or storage. Set up the equipment and get everything ready to go for the new tank.
Drain the old tank by siphoning the water into buckets and net the fish and carefully place them in one of these buckets of water. Make sure that the buckets you are using have no residue from soaps or detergents, to prevent the toxicity of these chemicals from harming your fish.
Scoop the gravel out of the old tank and place it in the new tank, then add the water from your buckets to the new tank, leaving the bucket with the fish in it for later. If this is enough water to get the filter started, do so. You should also take this opportunity to set up your decorations in the new tank. Remember, even the decorations in your tank will contain beneficial bacteria for your biological filter, so feel free to use those as well.
If this is enough water for the fish to swim freely, gently net the fish out of the bucket and place them in the new tank. If this is not enough water for the fish to be able to swim freely, you will want to add fresh dechlorinated tap water to the tank until you have enough water for the fish to be able to swim around. Once you have introduced the fish to the new tank, add the water that they were in to the new tank.
Top off the tank with fresh dechlorinated tap water. Do your best to keep the water you are adding to the tank close to the temperature of the water that is in the tank. This helps to minimize the stress to the fish and the biological filter due to the move. Floating or standing aquarium thermometers are available at most pet stores, and are fairly inexpensive. Also, the average human hand can differentiate between temperatures within 1/2° Fahrenheit (1/4° Celsius), so keeping the temperature close should not be much of a problem. If your water heater runs out of hot water, feel free to let the tank sit while more water is heated.
So you will have to remember, when setting up your new tank that you let it run for at least a day to check that the tank does not leak, and that the equipment all works, and to get the temperature stabilized, then introducing the first fish to try to get the cycle going. However, when moving to a larger tank, you are better off setting up the new tank using as much equipment and water from the old tank as possible, and immediately introducing the old fish to their new tank. Do not get any new fish until the tank is stable. Of course, all these steps are explained in details in the extensive manual that you can download immediately at www.first-aquarium-secrets.com.
Follow these steps when moving your fish to a larger aquarium:
Place the new tank where you want it. Rinse all the new equipment and the new gravel and decorations in cool running tap water to remove any dust or debris that has collected from manufacturing, shipping, or storage. Set up the equipment and get everything ready to go for the new tank.
Drain the old tank by siphoning the water into buckets and net the fish and carefully place them in one of these buckets of water. Make sure that the buckets you are using have no residue from soaps or detergents, to prevent the toxicity of these chemicals from harming your fish.
Scoop the gravel out of the old tank and place it in the new tank, then add the water from your buckets to the new tank, leaving the bucket with the fish in it for later. If this is enough water to get the filter started, do so. You should also take this opportunity to set up your decorations in the new tank. Remember, even the decorations in your tank will contain beneficial bacteria for your biological filter, so feel free to use those as well.
If this is enough water for the fish to swim freely, gently net the fish out of the bucket and place them in the new tank. If this is not enough water for the fish to be able to swim freely, you will want to add fresh dechlorinated tap water to the tank until you have enough water for the fish to be able to swim around. Once you have introduced the fish to the new tank, add the water that they were in to the new tank.
Top off the tank with fresh dechlorinated tap water. Do your best to keep the water you are adding to the tank close to the temperature of the water that is in the tank. This helps to minimize the stress to the fish and the biological filter due to the move. Floating or standing aquarium thermometers are available at most pet stores, and are fairly inexpensive. Also, the average human hand can differentiate between temperatures within 1/2° Fahrenheit (1/4° Celsius), so keeping the temperature close should not be much of a problem. If your water heater runs out of hot water, feel free to let the tank sit while more water is heated.
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