The 1987 edition of "Zagat Chicago Restaurant Survey" had this to say about Jackie's restaurant on North Lincoln Avenue.
March 31, 2007 (Press Release) --
"Some of our participants claim proprietress Jackie Shen to be the finest chef in Chicago. Her French nouvelle cuisine with Oriental touches generate superlatives from a host of admirers; not to be missed."
Jackie's on North Lincoln is long gone, but Shen is still around. For the last couple of years, she has been stamping her special brand of culinary expertise on the food at Red Light on West Randolph.
And here, 20 years later, is what the current edition of the "Zagat Survey of Chicago Restaurants" has to say about Shen. "Incredible. Jackie Shen works her magic at this intoxicating, hopping, Market District, fusion fantasy."
Shen definitely has talent. She knows how to work the flavor palette and come up with compositions that have depth and richness without getting all gaudy about it. And now that she has gotten back into her Asian cuisine element (she did a short stop at Lawry's the Prime Rib), I make Red Light to be one of the best Pan-Asian restaurants anywhere.
I cannot remember the last time I actually saw an executive chef working on a Sunday night, let alone delivering food to tables. Shen brought our appetizers. As she laid the plates on our table, she looked at me for a second, trying to establish, it seems, a faceprint recognition, but nothing registered (20 years can bring on a few changes; a few added pounds, a little less hair -- you know how it goes).
Compared with menus found in typical Chinese and Japanese restaurants, the menu at Red Light is structurally austere (a one-page wonder). However, the depth of culinary riches, along with a winning, straightforward approach (familiar dishes such as Kung Pao chicken and Phad Thai get comfortable with miso-glazed salmon and a special one night of pan-seared turbot), makes you want to dive into one dish after another.
Best steamed dumplings (Shao Mai) around, I say. The wrappers on these beauties were elegantly light and devoid of any gumminess. Plump to the point of bursting with a forcemeat of flavorful pork, and with a delicious Cognac-hoisin sauce to dabble with, these dumplings (don't you dare call them pot stickers) were devastatingly delicious.
Not far behind in goodness was another appetizer of substance, the spiced ribs. I figure the deep-down flavor of these ribs comes from the menu subtext that mentions "five-spice salt," which is probably something that Red Light should bottle and sell. The ribs, six in all, were mighty meaty and bone-licking good to the end.
"Crunchy calamari-tangerine salad" is the bold-face heading for this appetizer. "Crisp noodles, macadamia nuts, honey-mustard vinaigrette" is the subtext. Note the range of flavors and textures that are part of this dish. The citrus played nicely with the tender squid, and the vinaigrette was the perfect foil for the noodles and nuts.
Source: http://www.msn.com
Jackie's on North Lincoln is long gone, but Shen is still around. For the last couple of years, she has been stamping her special brand of culinary expertise on the food at Red Light on West Randolph.
And here, 20 years later, is what the current edition of the "Zagat Survey of Chicago Restaurants" has to say about Shen. "Incredible. Jackie Shen works her magic at this intoxicating, hopping, Market District, fusion fantasy."
Shen definitely has talent. She knows how to work the flavor palette and come up with compositions that have depth and richness without getting all gaudy about it. And now that she has gotten back into her Asian cuisine element (she did a short stop at Lawry's the Prime Rib), I make Red Light to be one of the best Pan-Asian restaurants anywhere.
I cannot remember the last time I actually saw an executive chef working on a Sunday night, let alone delivering food to tables. Shen brought our appetizers. As she laid the plates on our table, she looked at me for a second, trying to establish, it seems, a faceprint recognition, but nothing registered (20 years can bring on a few changes; a few added pounds, a little less hair -- you know how it goes).
Compared with menus found in typical Chinese and Japanese restaurants, the menu at Red Light is structurally austere (a one-page wonder). However, the depth of culinary riches, along with a winning, straightforward approach (familiar dishes such as Kung Pao chicken and Phad Thai get comfortable with miso-glazed salmon and a special one night of pan-seared turbot), makes you want to dive into one dish after another.
Best steamed dumplings (Shao Mai) around, I say. The wrappers on these beauties were elegantly light and devoid of any gumminess. Plump to the point of bursting with a forcemeat of flavorful pork, and with a delicious Cognac-hoisin sauce to dabble with, these dumplings (don't you dare call them pot stickers) were devastatingly delicious.
Not far behind in goodness was another appetizer of substance, the spiced ribs. I figure the deep-down flavor of these ribs comes from the menu subtext that mentions "five-spice salt," which is probably something that Red Light should bottle and sell. The ribs, six in all, were mighty meaty and bone-licking good to the end.
"Crunchy calamari-tangerine salad" is the bold-face heading for this appetizer. "Crisp noodles, macadamia nuts, honey-mustard vinaigrette" is the subtext. Note the range of flavors and textures that are part of this dish. The citrus played nicely with the tender squid, and the vinaigrette was the perfect foil for the noodles and nuts.
Source: http://www.msn.com
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